Comparison of filters and other tips.


The main filter you should always use in a Wratten #12 for colour infrared photography, but that doesn’t stop you from using other filters, either on their own or combined with the #12, one rule of thumb is make sure your filter has some yellow in it, orange or green filters also block some blue.


Below is a table of filter comparisons, the first picture is how it should look taken with ordinary colour film stock, then three Kodak EIR pictures with different filter combinations and last two pictures are taken with Kodak HIE black and white infrared film.

Each image is a click-able link to a larger version.

Filter key

Wratten 12
Deep yellow

Graduated blue
 

Orange
 

Wratten 25,
Red

Wratten 87,
infrared only


Natural
 





Bracketing

Another suggestion to guarantee great results is to bracket your picture. Bracketing means taking more than picture usually one regular shot, one under exposed and one over exposed . For example, if your main picture is exposed at F5.6 @ 1/125, bracketing the shot by half a stop and taking three pictures will give you three exposures, one at F4.5 @ 1/125, one at F5.6 @ 1/125 and one at F6.7 @ 1/125, this method of photography ensures a greater chance of getting the correct exposure, not knowing how much infrared light is around you can result in under exposed or over exposed pictures.

The three pictures below demonstrate how bracketing can save a potentially ruined photo, this particular shot was bracketed by half a stop, you'll see that the half stop overexposed shot worked best.





Suggested Exposure details

Finally in this rough guide the actual exposure details for Kodak EIR colour infrared film.

Kodak suggest exposing the film, when processing using E-6 chemistry, using 200ASA as a guideline, I personally rate the film at 250ASA, then I bracket just to make sure, some people recommend using 320ASA, at the end of the day it all boils down to personal preference and experience with the film, so I'd start at 250ASA and bracket three shots at half stop intervals, this should give you some excellent results. If you're using the camera's TTL metering, place the Wratten #12 filter in front of the lens and then take the exposure reading. Make a note of these settings and if you're taking more than one picture of the same location, but using different filters, use these same readings you made with the Wratten #12.

I would question the need to refocus to the red dot using colour infrared film as the layers are sensitive to both infrared and visible light, so personally I use a large depth of field (small aperture) to compensate for any IR focal adjustment.




Most of the filters I use are gels that require a suitable holder, I'd recommend ones made by Cokin, a selection of filters can be bought online at Amazon.com: Cokin Filters.

Thank you for taking the time to look at my rough guide to infrared photography.

Below I've listed a selection of infrared books which are available from Amazon.com, otherwise I would like invite you to return to the Coolmint Infrared Photography gallery to enjoy the various infrared pictures I've taken over the years.

Gavin Wrigley



If you would like to send comments or ask questions about infrared photography,
please feel free to send an email.



Recommended reading available from Amazon.com

Also available from Amazon.co.uk

The Art of Color Infrared Photography
The Art of Infrared Photography
Infrared Photography Handbook
Infrared Landscape Photography